I hate knowing about articles like this, because they make your planning so difficult.
We spent a lot of time in Hostel Willy Fogg, and in spite of the stinky kitchen and rude kids from Argentina and Chile, being moved to a different room, never having breakfast, and the smoky smell all over the place, we were kind of attached to the place. Everyone was a bit familiar now, and you start to develop roots awfully quickly when you don't move on in a day or two. You don't want to pick up the heavy rucksacks and drag them to a bus station to make your way to some other town and start it all over again, just like we are right now (albeit at 3am).
It took a day or two to see why most travellers form a strong connection with Montevideo without actually staying here very long, at least in 2014. It's a beautiful, deep, surprisingly big city with every-day glamour and fine eating for a mandatory bump in price. It full of people full of secrets, beaches in the most unlikely locations, and neighbourhoods that sit juxtaposed, bound by unlikely boulevards. When we came across a building designed by an architect obsessed with alchemy, it seemed the most suitable location. No one can understand how anyone can afford to live here, yet it has a thriving and high-quality social scene. The feeling of everyone else knowing something you don't pervades it all.
One problem with travel like this is that events tend to fade into the very recent past; I know I felt a similar connection with Asuncion, yet the day we left is so far from now, barely a month ago, that it feels irrelevant. Uruguay is different, however. This is a country lacking a true elite - Mauro explained that Uruguay has the shortest distance between middle class and upper class in the continent. On the other hand, the gap between middle class and working class couldn't be bigger. I don't understand how anyone lives in a country at these prices; even Tesco might be ashamed. When you see the fluctuations in exchange rate in the past few years you understand.
I would return to this city in a second. A pity it is the place I am least likely to revisit, much like everyone else who comes here.
We checked out after 11am but I only had one thing on my mind - the Museu Del Fútbol. Eventually we got on the Linea 140 bus to the stadium, albeit a little far away, and made it in; a bargain at $100 entry.
The flag taken to the 1924 Olympic Games.
Diego Forlan is revered around here.
Lots of shirts from other World Cups, this one is signed by Geoff Hurst, plenty of photos of his goals here too.
I particularly liked this folder.
This doesn't look like much, but its an enormous flag in homage to El Equipo Celeste
Actual World Cup tickets, for those who like that sort of thing.
2002 World Cup Japan / South Korea memorabilia
The actual Estadio Centenario is dated, the pitch looks a bit haggard, but its easy to imagine a few hundred thousand football fans here, bawling and mewling and urging another goal.
It is so incredibly humid today, we walked around and water ran from our faces and ears, which I always figure is a good indicatory of humidity.
It's not a Windsor Burger, but its ok. Whats a churro, mate?
This one is signed and worn by Pele at the 1958 World Cup
This one is Maradona's.
It really was hot.
3pm is a good time to leave and catch a bus. We stop off in Ciudad Vieja for some lunch, I enjoy a boiled egg wrapped in cold roast beef, and a Russian salad (?), Sarah has a burger and chips. We continue to enjoy table wine, much cheaper than everything else. Go to the hostel and collect our bags and, by way of a dull story, make it to Tres Cruces bus terminal, taking the 6.30pm bus to Colonia Del Sacramento.
I missed a little of the trip. Made up for it in Colonia by finding the hostel by asking directions in Spanish, ordering a big plate of ribs and sausage in a nice Parrilla (just like the Saturday nights of old, eh Ma?) and staying up til 4am writing this up for you. If you don't like the photos I don't want to know.
Hotel El Viajero in Colonia Del Sacramento. I'm wearing a polo shirt and black trousers. Find me on Google Maps.
Ah - just along the coast a bit, right opposite Buenos Aires. Don't see that hotel on Tripadvisor but lists many highly rated things to do & places to visit. Interesting pics at the football museum etc (though attempts to capture panorama of vast stadium hopeless as usual).
ReplyDeleteOf vague concern is the seemingly increasing trend for Sarah starting to resemble one of the Peru 2. (From a distance anyway).Must be the burger-surfeit.....
Whats more curious is the colour Sarah's hair has gone - she's virtually bronze on top now.
ReplyDeleteThe museum was scorching which didn't help, its not easy to relish the sporting history when you have sweat pouring into your eyes, but even Sarah was able to appreciate how important football is for so many people in the world (as opposed to the importance of rugby, for example)