A Saturday, a hot, blue and fresh Saturday, with the obligatory breakfast of watermelon, cheese and ham toasties, and gut-emptying amounts of coffee. At some point on Friday night we made the fortuitous decision to sign up for the hostel’s trip to the Argentine side of the the Falls rather than do it ourselves. 9.30am comes and we jump in the minibus, about £30 lighter.
Have some banter on the way to the border, though we fret about a lack of paperwork that other people seem to have. Our European fears and neuroses remain alert. On arrival at the Brazil border we get stamped out of the country. No one gives a damn that we have no arrival slip from the airport.
To get to Argentina you cross the Friendship Bridge (though it is easy to imagine that very much in the terms of Robert Frost); the Brazilian half of the bridge has kerbstones painted Green and Yellow. The Argentine side is painted Pale Blue And White. I wonder what would happen if I painted every third kerbstone Red. Our driver stops halfway and announces ‘I am in Argentina, you are still in Brazil, ha ha!’. The view of the Rio Paraná charms everyone.
On to the Argentine customs point, no problems there either, and finally on to the entrance. Takes about an hour to get there from the hostel, via the airport, and we are ready for a serious walk. I am still unsure if people would believe me that I wear shorts and flip flops virtually every day. We have been informed that a trip to the park can be a wet one. Light clothes dominate our attire.
The sentiment expressed is that you see the falls from the Brazilian side, but you breathe them on the Argentina side. We sidestepped the Brazil part out of a shortage of time, though it really only takes a couple of hours to see them (the entrance is about 18km outside of town, you can take an urban bus there and its inexpensive when there). The other thing everyone is at pains to point out is how expensive the Argie side is. We have brought our own picnic with us, obligatory ham and cheese sandwiches. I wish for bacon and lettuce and tomato and decent sliced bread. It is bad form of me to complain about the bread here, which is much better than the average supermarket fare back home.
The park here is big enough to sustain you for a day, if not more. We spent nearly 6 hours here and that was a very bare-bones experience, no boat trips or out on the San Martin Island or anything (which was closed anyway due to high water). You can buy a ticket for a second day at a reduced price on arrival anyway, and I think its free for subsequent days.
Iguacu Falls was named one of the seven modern wonders of the world in 2011.
Everyone is a little subdued after so much magic on the way home. At the hostel, as the black clouds roll in for the thunderstorm, I go for a swim in glorious warm waters of our swimming pool, whilst Andy, our Italian multi-lingual friend pulls mangos from the tree with the net used to clear leaves from the pool, and cuts me off a slice or two. I refuse to get out and Sarah takes no responsibility for me being hit by lightning (which doesn’t actually happen).
Noodles and hot dogs for dinner, and a long chat with David and Tasha later, and suddenly its 3am. Tomorrow we leave Brazil for Paraguay. We are already committed to coming back. Brazil is as much a European country as Portugal itself, minus a few of the rules that characterise life in the Olde World. On the other hand, I have finally met someone who has never heard of Guinness. Rodney, our young translator at the hostel, doesn’t know who Thin Lizzy are either. Ah Rodney, what a guy.
Butterflies land on you for a rest and let you carry them around the park.
Map. And showers.
THE DEVIL'S THROAT
Evidence that we crossed the border.
Japanese tourists were charmed by my butterfly
These monkeys enjoyed throwing each other into the bushes.
Remember this little platform here for a moment...
Cute little coatís. Do not feed.
Great big coatís. Also do not feed.
Curious bird that wanted stroked and fed. DO NOT FEED.
What you get for your money on a boat trip.
This is that platform from earlier on.
Sarah getting drenched.
Great big coatís trying to open an empty bottle of Coke with scary teeth. Lots of people taping it on their phones.
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